Designer Christopher Bailey, for their Spring 13 runway, turned the traditional slim-line tailoring that has defined Burberry up a notch (or 10) by invigorating the clean, sophisticated lines with pops of metallic colour and bold prints. Overcoats shun through in hues of vibrant pinks and blues, whilst shirts were a little more subdued in neutral toned prints. However, the colourful bomber jackets were the real winners and a must for every guys wardrobe!
The collection was simple and minimal, albeit a bit boring, and was a large change from the last few seasons. It represented a back-to-basics collection that whilst didn’t enthral me, still made we want every piece. What Miuccia has managed to do so well is strip the brand down and give it a fresh start. The use of colour was on trend, without being outlandish, the tailoring was precise and elegant, and overall, the range was, well, safe. However, each piece can easily fit into a man’s existing wardrobe, and after all, is that what we all want?
Jil Sander returned to design for her namesake after a short stint elsewhere, and whilst she is no Raf Simons (I have always been a fan of his), her collection did him justice. Simons rebranded Jil Sander and brought it back to relevance, and if anyone was to take on the upkeep, it was Sander herself. The sophisticated tailoring of the coats was offset by billowing shorts that stopped just below the knee, and whilst colour was strewn throughout the collection, with electric blue and maroon dominating, the palette was somewhat muted. If anything caught my eye, it was the creams and ivories that rounded off the collection. Welcome home Jil!
If anyone knows luxe, it is Zegna. This collection was an ode to the brands heritage of sophisticated tailoring and unequalled luxury; however, it made a clear statement that their consumer might need a bit of reinvigorating. The collection was much more structured and tapered than previously, suggesting that to be opulent does not mean you cannot be on-trend. The influx of colour and print was a pleasant surprise, whilst the variety of fabrications meant that clear choices needed to be made on shapes and cuts (i.e. the ostentatious and equally incredible silk trousers!). Overall, this was a rather exciting collection.
Let’s get one thing straight- metallic, for the most part, is NEVER ok. Yet, so much of the Spring 13 Cavalli collection seemed to revolve around bright, shiny pieces, namely pants. It was all a bit much, and not in a good way. The individual garments were well tailored, and for that they deserve some credit, however, the night time glam rock look seemed more euro trash. A collection I would endeavour to let fall at the wayside in a bid to hope for something more next time round.
I have come to expect a few things from Versace over the years- colour, prints and sex. And this collection had it all. From the onset, there were semi-naked, overly muscled men parading the Versace underwear and swim line. And once one had moved beyond that, there were actually some clever and exciting pieces in the collection. The floral print was a lot of fun, and as individual items, would make a great statement piece to any guy’s wardrobe. And yes, I realise I just said that metallic is never ok, but the bronze bomber jacket sure caught my eye. Even the tailored suiting was well constructed and styled, and also had gold embellishments to reassure and remind everyone that we were watching a Versace runway.
all images taken from style.com