Prepare for the most EPIC colour overload thanks to Salvatore Ferragamo

Posted on June 26, 2012 by thespectacledgentleman

This was an overall delineation from traditional Ferragamo, but an exciting one! Colour, colour and more colour was present on the runway (clearly I have a thing for colour and prints), and when combined with the sporty undertones of the collection, namely the pairing with sneakers, this demonstrated a shift to attract a more youthful consumer. Yes, it was all a bit much and over the top, and sure, all the colour clashing was a bit distracting, but it was a fun collection and represented Spring so well. It was unequivocal fun mixed with clean tailoring, and I for one loved it. To say I was excited by each look that came down the runway is an understatement. Dare I say it, but this is perhaps my favourite collection thus far!

All images have been taken from style.com

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Spring 2013 Menswear Highlights

Posted on June 25, 2012 by thespectacledgentleman

Burberry Prorsum

Designer Christopher Bailey, for their Spring 13 runway, turned the traditional slim-line tailoring that has defined Burberry up a notch (or 10) by invigorating the clean, sophisticated lines with pops of metallic colour and bold prints. Overcoats shun through in hues of vibrant pinks and blues, whilst shirts were a little more subdued in neutral toned prints. However, the colourful bomber jackets were the real winners and a must for every guys wardrobe!

Prada

The collection was simple and minimal, albeit a bit boring, and was a large change from the last few seasons. It represented a back-to-basics collection that whilst didn’t enthral me, still made we want every piece. What Miuccia has managed to do so well is strip the brand down and give it a fresh start. The use of colour was on trend, without being outlandish, the tailoring was precise and elegant, and overall, the range was, well, safe. However, each piece can easily fit into a man’s existing wardrobe, and after all, is that what we all want?

Jil Sander

Jil Sander returned to design for her namesake after a short stint elsewhere, and whilst she is no Raf Simons (I have always been a fan of his), her collection did him justice. Simons rebranded Jil Sander and brought it back to relevance, and if anyone was to take on the upkeep, it was Sander herself. The sophisticated tailoring of the coats was offset by billowing shorts that stopped just below the knee, and whilst colour was strewn throughout the collection, with electric blue and maroon dominating, the palette was somewhat muted. If anything caught my eye, it was the creams and ivories that rounded off the collection. Welcome home Jil!

Ermenegildo Zegna

If anyone knows luxe, it is Zegna. This collection was an ode to the brands heritage of sophisticated tailoring and unequalled luxury; however, it made a clear statement that their consumer might need a bit of reinvigorating. The collection was much more structured and tapered than previously, suggesting that to be opulent does not mean you cannot be on-trend. The influx of colour and print was a pleasant surprise, whilst the variety of fabrications meant that clear choices needed to be made on shapes and cuts (i.e. the ostentatious and equally incredible silk trousers!). Overall, this was a rather exciting collection.

Roberto Cavalli

Let’s get one thing straight- metallic, for the most part, is NEVER ok. Yet, so much of the Spring 13 Cavalli collection seemed to revolve around bright, shiny pieces, namely pants. It was all a bit much, and not in a good way. The individual garments were well tailored, and for that they deserve some credit, however, the night time glam rock look seemed more euro trash. A collection I would endeavour to let fall at the wayside in a bid to hope for something more next time round.

Versace

I have come to expect a few things from Versace over the years- colour, prints and sex. And this collection had it all. From the onset, there were semi-naked, overly muscled men parading the Versace underwear and swim line. And once one had moved beyond that, there were actually some clever and exciting pieces in the collection. The floral print was a lot of fun, and as individual items, would make a great statement piece to any guy’s wardrobe. And yes, I realise I just said that metallic is never ok, but the bronze bomber jacket sure caught my eye. Even the tailored suiting was well constructed and styled, and also had gold embellishments to reassure and remind everyone that we were watching a Versace runway.

all images taken from style.com

London Men’s Fashion Week- Spring/Summer 2013

Posted on June 19, 2012 by thespectacledgentleman

J.W. Anderson

J.W. Anderson’s collection had a clear feminine aesthetic, with many of the looks bordering on the side of androgynous pieces. His play with textures, shapes, colours and fabrics made a bold statement on the runway, provoking audience’s to question traditional notions of menswear. Whilst I find it difficult to foresee a market for the brand, especially in Australia, I applaud J.W. Anderson for putting forth an idea and sticking to it. Fashion should push boundaries, and he sure as hell did that.

Sibling

The brand is a bit of crazy combined with a lot of fun, and an innovative approach to men’s fashion. For their first runway, they sure knew how to put on a show. Called ‘Revolution’, it was part ode to London riots combined with sports luxe. Once you look beyond the headpieces and shenanigans, which may I add were a particular highlight; the individual pieces were well constructed, on trend, and for the most part, commercially viable. The entire collection screamed frivolity and revolt.

E.Tautz

Effortlessly chic tailoring, bold colours and a diverse range of fabrics- what more could anyone ask for. E. Tautz was on trend this coming Spring/Summer, however, it lacked the edge that other men’s designers put forward. Playing it safe, albeit a bit boring, is never a bad idea- at least in terms of saleability. Hues of pink, yellow and navy dominated the runway, mixing in amongst sharp suiting and oversized shirting. It was a well-constructed and refined collection, and one that could easily be dissected in order to find its place in every man’s wardrobe.

Richard Nicoll

This was a collection that built momentum as it strode along. Starting in earthy tones of white and grey, pops of colour were added to the runway, eventuating with deep hues of royal blue and teal. Form and fabric was key, where tailored bottoms, including leather shorts, were paired up with oversized bomber style jackets and slouchy knitted jumpers. Aside from the odd pop of yellow, the collection was cohesive and flowed effortlessly, finding the right balance between fashion trends and commercial viability.

Topman

The eponymous label is perhaps more relevant now to the Australian men’s fashion market than ever before. With a store open in Melbourne and one on the way in Sydney, we look to Topman to bring us guys affordable, on trend fast fashion. And if this collection is anything to go by, it will be a bright and fun Spring/Summer (next year anyway!). The inspiration seemed to be a schoolboy sports jock gone rebellious aesthetic, and as such, the looks were paired up with high socks on lace-ups, backpacks and even skateboards. The shorts were fitted and above the knee, whilst the shirts were printed and the jackets tailored. However, everything was that little bit dishevelled, giving it a preppy edge vibe. Throw in the amazing prints and colours, and my eagerness for a Sydney store to open is beyond controllable.

Some cool Tommy Ton’s street photography throughout the week:

King Karl

Posted on June 14, 2012 by thespectacledgentleman

The fashion god that is Karl Lagerfeld has given us a rare glimpse into his world. A series of intimate portraits of him in his apartment in Paris were used for his guest edit of France’s Architectural Digest. Needless to say, his apartment is incredible. Chic, minimal, clean lines are contrasted against what is the most captivating aspect of the apartment- a floor to ceiling bookcase that envelops his study with a spiral staircase that takes you to a mezzanine level. Juxtapositions are key to Lagerfeld’s interior, much like his design aesthetic, utilising the opposition between black and white, between minimal and cluttered and between homely and sterile, to compose his living arena. An apartment fit for a king, well, a fashion one anyway.

Catherine Martin for Designer Rugs

Posted on June 12, 2012 by thespectacledgentleman

What happens when one of the industries most coveted designers creates an Art Deco rug collection for the most anticipated film of the year? Well, you get one of the most exclusive events of the year.

Catherine Martin, Oscar winning designer, and wife of infamous film director Baz Lurhmann, has collaborated with Sydney based rug company, Designer Rugs, to create yet another of her own signature collections. Inspired by all things Gatsby, these hand knotted rugs are integral centrepieces to any room, and were featured at the couple’s estate in Sydney last Wednesday evening. Offering industry insiders a sneak peak at the range (and into their home), the cocktail event was as whimsical and enigmatic of the art deco era as the rugs themselves. However, as if the star power behind Martin and Lurhmann wasn’t enough to drag people to the estate on a rainy night, the couple had opened up the ‘Red Room’ to their guests, displaying all their trophies and memorabilia from past movies- including Romeo + Juliet and Moulin Rouge- to a crowd in awe.

The collection can be purchased from Designer Rugs.

Tommy Ton- let’s crop in and go nice and close

Posted on June 5, 2012 by thespectacledgentleman

Tommy Ton has become synonymous with street style photography, but more importantly, he can be credited for bringing a freshness to fashion photography thanks to his cropped and close-up images. Since launching his site Jak and Jil back in 2005, his imagery has become well known amongst the fashion elite, the world of fashion blogging, and young fashion hopefuls alike. Ton not only runs his infamous blog, but also covers street style for both style.com and gq.com at all major fashion weeks. Here are a few of my favourite images.